UPDATE: I ended up moving the light fixture up a few inches so that I could get the necessary slack to route it through the stud to the other side. Can I use one of these kits in my situation, or is there a better alternative approach? Ive heard from electricians they can be hard to wire so Ive always used an accessible junction box or just dug the cable out and replaced it repairing the drywall after. Search for Tyco Electronics Romex Splice kit for one example. I have seen some no-box splice kit products, but it's unclear to me when these are allowed by code. In wall splice kits do exists, but they are pretty bulky. So, what I need to do is add maybe 6 inches to the existing Romex, without a box, so that it can be run directly into the new box on the other side of the stud. However, I've learned it is a bad idea/against code to enclose a junction box in the wall, and I don't want a junction box cover sitting right behind my vanity light. I was going to leave the old box in place, using it as a pure junction box (no fixture/switch/outlet) and running a short length of Romex from this box, through the stud/shim, to the fan box on the other side. :thumbsup: If it were to remain a visible splice then maybe but not anything buried in the wall. This NEC approved splice can be hidden behind a wall, but. Many contractors and homeowners doing Wiring in a house have found this kit easier to use than a traditional exposed junction box. Mount a box, make your splice and put a blank plate on it making it available for inspection. Use this non-metallic splice kit in place of a junction box for splicing 12 or 14 awg (300 volt), 2-conductor nm cable with ground. :no: Never seen these devices before but I wouldnt use them. However, the existing Romex is too short to comfortably be threaded through a hole in the stud/shim and into the fan box on the other side. (Edited) I would never want a splice buried in the wall.I asked a previous question here that helped with this. I have figured out how to do this by attaching a shim to the left side of the stud and a fan box to the shim for the fixture wiring. The (centered) new fixture needs to be on the left side of the stud. I removed the old, off-centered fixture, which was placed on top of a stud (not sure if it was to code- the wiring was in a rectangular box on the right side of the stud, with the fixture bracket nailed directly to the stud). I'm replacing a bathroom vanity light fixture.
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